Pro results, DIY budget
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DIY guide
How to stain a fence in Oklahoma City: a step-by-step guide
Staining your own cedar fence is a real weekend project — not a mystery. Here is exactly what a professional crew does, in order, so you can do it right the first time.
Before you start
What you'll need to stain a fence
Cleaning & prep
- ✓1 pump garden sprayer (for cleaner)
- ✓Clorox bleach, 3-5 gallons depending on fence size
- ✓Dawn dish soap, 1 gallon
- ✓Drop cloths
- ✓Moisture meter
Staining & application
- ✓1 pump garden sprayer (for stain)
- ✓2″ paint brushes
- ✓6″ nap roller, 3/8″ nap
- ✓Oil-based penetrating stain — 1 gallon per 125 sq ft
- ✓Mineral spirits (for cleanup)
Step 1
Prepare the wood before staining
Every exterior wood structure has to be clean and dry before it will accept stain properly. If your fence is brand-new cedar, let it dry out from the milling process first — the ideal internal moisture content is 13% or less, which cedar usually reaches in two weeks or less during warmer months. Pressure-treated lumber takes much longer, often three to six months, depending on sun exposure, temperature, and board thickness. Either way, wait 24-48 hours after any rain before staining, and check your work with a moisture meter (about $25-30 at any hardware store).
Step 2
Clean and de-gray a weathered fence
If your fence has started to gray, it needs to be cleaned before it’s stained — any oxidation left on the wood will still show through the new finish. Mix half Clorox bleach with half water in a pump sprayer, and apply it in an even, up-and-down pattern to lift the gray, kill mildew spores, and stop the decay process. Rinse thoroughly with a garden hose afterward to neutralize the bleach, then let the wood dry for another 24-48 hours until moisture is back under 13%.
Never pressure wash your fence.
High-pressure water fuzzes and splinters cedar and can damage the fibers permanently. We use soft-wash chemical cleaning exclusively, on our jobs and on our own fences at home — it’s the only method that lifts gray oxidation without harming the wood underneath.
Step 3
Choose the right fence stain
Not all fence stains are built the same, and the difference shows up fast the first time weather hits the wood. Film-forming stains sit on the surface and eventually crack and peel; a true oil-based penetrating stain soaks into the wood fiber and protects from within, so it fades evenly instead of flaking. Go to a hardware store and you’ll find plenty of options — but the product you choose is what separates a fence that looks great for one season from one that looks great for years.
This is exactly why we use and recommend Expert Stain and Seal® on every job we do. It’s a true oil-based penetrating stain — ultra-low VOC, kid- and pet-friendly, with no harsh chemical smell — and it applies without back-brushing, laps, or runs, even in full sun or near-freezing temperatures. It never peels or flakes, which makes reapplication down the road just as easy as the first coat.
Buy Expert Stain and Seal® directly from us
Sold by appointment, in 5-gallon increments only. Call or text to check availability and set up a pickup time.
Step 4
Apply the stain
A brush or roller will get the job done, but a pump or backpack sprayer is faster and gives the most even coat over a full fence line. Whatever you use, wear safety glasses and a respirator — stain can spray back or release fumes you don’t want to breathe in. Work in manageable sections, both faces of every board, and keep a wet edge so you don’t leave visible lap lines.
What it costs to stain your own fence
DIY staining costs less than hiring it out, but usually not by as much as people expect once tools are factored in. For 150 linear feet stained on both sides (about 1,800 sq ft), plan on roughly 15 gallons of stain — a quality oil-based penetrating stain runs about $50 a gallon, so $700-800 in stain alone. Add $40-50 in cleaning supplies for a graying fence, and another $80-100 for a sprayer, brushes, and drop cloths. All told, budget about $0.50-0.55 per square foot, and 6-8 hours of work for an average homeowner with the right tools on hand.
$0.50-0.55
Per sq ft, DIY materials only
6-8 hrs
Typical time for 150 linear ft
1 gal / 125 sq ft
Standard oil-stain coverage rate
Cleaning up after staining
Clean brushes, sprayers, and rollers with mineral spirits as soon as you’re done, so they’re ready for the next project once dry. If stain lands on metal gutters, windows, or an AC unit, a little Dawn dish soap and water lifts it right off. Stain on concrete comes up best if you act fast: apply Dawn full-strength, let it sit 30-45 minutes while agitating with a brush, then rinse — that clears about 90% of it. If you know you’ll be staining near concrete, pre-wet it and coat it with a half-and-half Dawn-and-water mix first; the stain won’t soak in, and it rinses away easily afterward.
Sound like more than you want to take on?
Give us a call. Then sit back and relax.
Send two photos of your fence and we’ll geo-map it for a written quote — often within hours. No deposit on staining under $10,000; you pay when you’re 100% satisfied.
Fence staining questions, answered
How long does fence stain need to dry before it rains?
Give oil-based penetrating stain at least 24-48 hours to cure before rain is expected. Applying on a day with clear weather for the following two days gives the most reliable results.
Do you have to pressure wash a fence before staining it?
No — pressure washing should be avoided entirely. It fuzzes and splinters cedar fibers and can damage the wood. Soft-wash chemical cleaning with a diluted bleach solution removes gray oxidation and mildew without harming the grain.
How many coats of stain does a fence need?
Most oil-based penetrating stains only need one coat when applied correctly and evenly. A second coat can deepen color on very dry or porous wood, but heavy double-coating can leave a tacky film rather than improve protection.
What's the best temperature and season to stain a fence in Oklahoma?
Spring and fall give the most reliable results, with moderate temperatures and less rain to interrupt curing. Quality oil-based stains can still be applied in full sun or near-freezing temperatures if a weather window is tight.
How long does fence stain last before it needs to be reapplied?
A quality oil-based penetrating stain typically lasts 2-3 years in the Oklahoma climate before it needs to be refreshed, sooner on fence sections that face full south or west sun.
Can a gray, weathered fence be stained without replacing it?
Usually, yes. If the posts and rails are structurally sound, cleaning the gray oxidation off with a soft-wash bleach solution and applying a fresh coat of penetrating oil stain restores the fence for a fraction of replacement cost.